The Elusive White Tiger in Ranthambore Forest

Spoiler alert: we did not find him.

After a day-long car trip that stretched into the night, our journey to Ranthambore Forest ended suddenly and somewhat unexpectedly.

Our driver, Mr. Singh, pulled up and stopped in front of a nearly unseen set of solid metal tall doors. An armed guard appeared out of nowhere, prepared to challenge us if we could not provide identification. An otherworldly glow grew out of the darkness, created by lights that suddenly appeared in our lodging. We had climbed into the Aravallis mountains of eastern Rajasthan, not a Rocky Mountain high, but still at an elevation that made our passage from the car to the hotel chilly.

We were on a mission to find a white tiger, an elusive creature known to live in this mountainous region of northern India.

Gino and I had finally arrived at Aman-I-Khas, one of the high-end AMAN properties. These inns, spread around the globe, are often found in isolated settings. Marked by size, the standard Aman lodge seldom accommodates more than 20 guests. Many properties have stand-alone “rooms,” either tents fixed upon concrete or wood platforms or individual small huts. Calling an Aman property bedroom a “hut” is like calling a thoroughbred a nag.

Gino and I, exhausted from the day of non-stop traffic, dust, and the partially controlled mayhem of Indian highways and roads, were exhausted.